Cycling training has gotten complicated with all the different methods and technologies flying around. As someone with extensive cycling experience, I learned everything there is to know about this topic. Today, I will share it all with you.

What I Wear When It Gets Cold

First winter I tried to bike through, I wore a cotton hoodie and running pants. Frozen solid within 20 minutes. Hands so numb I couldn’t shift. Turned around and walked home. Took a few seasons to figure out what actually works in cold weather. Probably should have led with that section, honestly.

Layering Actually Matters

The system works: base layer wicks sweat, mid layer insulates, outer layer blocks wind. Sounds like marketing speak until you ride in 30-degree weather and realize cotton kills.

Base layer: Merino wool or synthetic. Something that pulls moisture away from skin. You’ll sweat even in cold weather. Wet fabric against skin makes you colder.

Mid layer: Fleece or wool for insulation. Traps warm air. The thickness depends on temperature — thin fleece for 40s, heavier for 20s.

Outer layer: Windproof, ideally water-resistant. Doesn’t need to be heavy if the wind is blocked. Good venting matters too since you generate a lot of heat while riding.

The Extremities Problem

Hands and feet fail first. Core stays warm from exertion while fingers and toes freeze because blood goes to the important organs.

Hands

Lobster gloves (two-finger design) are warmer than full-fingered gloves for equal bulk. Pogies/bar mitts are the warmest option of all — they mount on the handlebars and create a wind-proof shelter. Look ugly, work great.

I’m apparently a cold-hands person and need heavy gloves below 40F while friends wear light ones. Figure out your own threshold.

Feet

Wool socks, not cotton. Neoprene shoe covers over cycling shoes. For serious cold, winter cycling boots exist but they’re expensive and single-purpose. Most people layer covers and wool and accept some discomfort.

Head and Neck

Helmet still goes on top. Thin cap or headband underneath covers ears. Balaclava or neck gaiter for the face and neck. Full face coverage below 25F or so, depending on wind.

Bike Prep

Wet lube instead of dry. Wet conditions wash away dry lube immediately. Wet lube sticks around but attracts more grit, so cleaning matters more.

Fenders are non-negotiable. Road spray soaks you quickly, making cold worse. Full coverage fenders keep most water off.

Lights for the shorter days. Rechargeable with long battery life since cold drains batteries faster. Reflective tape on frame and clothing.

Tire Considerations

Wider tires at lower pressure for better grip on unpredictable surfaces. Not everyone has space for fat tires, but run what you can. All-season compounds stay softer in cold than summer rubber.

Studded tires exist for ice. They’re heavy, slow, and loud, but they grip where nothing else does. Worth owning if you live somewhere that gets actual ice.

Adjusting Expectations

Winter rides are slower. Layers add drag. Cold air is denser. Surfaces may be compromised. Accept this. The point is getting outside and moving, not hitting summer speeds.

Shorter rides often make more sense. Getting cold starts around the 90-minute mark regardless of clothing. Several 45-minute rides beat one epic that ends in hypothermia.

What I Actually Use

Merino base layer, cycling-specific softshell jacket, thermal tights. Lobster gloves below 35F. Neoprene shoe covers. Buff over my neck and ears. It works down to about 20F for an hour. Below that I’m on the indoor trainer.