Finding Indoor Cycling Shoes That Actually Fit

Showed up to my first spin class in running shoes. The instructor gave me that look — the one that says “you’ll learn.” She was right. By week three I’d bought cycling shoes. The difference was immediately obvious: more power, less foot pain, and finally understanding why everyone clipped in.

Why Cycling Shoes Matter

Regular shoes flex when you pedal. That flex absorbs energy that should go to the bike. Cycling shoes have stiff soles that transfer power directly. You push down, the wheel spins — nothing lost in between.

Clipping in also lets you pull up on the pedals, not just push down. More muscle groups engaged, more efficient stroke. That’s what makes clipless systems endearing to us indoor cyclists — smoother, more powerful pedaling once you get past the learning curve.

Cleat Systems Explained

SPD (Two-Bolt)

Smaller cleats that recess into the sole. You can walk in these without clicking around like a clydesdale on concrete. Most indoor spin bikes use SPD-compatible pedals. Start here unless you know otherwise.

Look/SPD-SL (Three-Bolt)

Larger cleats, more contact area, slightly more power transfer. Walking is awkward — the cleat sticks out from the sole. Road cyclists prefer these; indoor cyclists generally don’t need them.

Peloton-Specific

Peloton bikes use Look Delta cleats. If you’re primarily riding a Peloton, get shoes compatible with their system. Delta cleats are three-bolt like Look but with a slightly different design.

What to Look For

Sole Stiffness

Stiffer is generally better for power, but too stiff can cause hot spots on long rides. Indoor cycling rarely involves walking, so you can go stiffer than you might for outdoor riding.

Closure System

Velcro straps are simple and work fine. Ratcheting buckles offer more precise adjustment. BOA dials are the most adjustable but also most expensive. All work — pick based on budget and preference.

Ventilation

Indoor cycling gets hot. Look for mesh panels or vents that allow airflow. Outdoor cycling shoes prioritize weather protection; indoor shoes should prioritize breathability.

Brands Worth Considering

Shimano: Reliable across all price points. The RC1 and RC3 are solid entry-level options. Good fit for most feet.

Giro: Comfortable, stylish, good ventilation. Often slightly more expensive than Shimano for equivalent features.

Specialized: Their Body Geometry research applies to shoes too. Good ergonomic designs but premium pricing.

Peloton: If you have a Peloton bike, their house-brand shoes work fine. Not special, but compatible and convenient.

Getting the Fit Right

Cycling shoes should be snug but not painful. Your heel shouldn’t slip. Toes shouldn’t hit the front. Try shoes on later in the day when feet are slightly swollen — that’s closer to how they’ll feel mid-workout.

Width matters more than length for many people. Some brands run narrow (Specialized), others wider (Shimano). Check reviews for width feedback if you have unusual foot dimensions.

First Time Clipping In

Practice clipping in and out before class. Many people fall the first time because they forget they’re attached. Twist your heel outward to release — it becomes automatic after a few tries.

Adjust cleat position if your knees hurt. Cleats too far forward cause knee pain; too far back affects power. Small adjustments make big differences.

Care and Maintenance

Wipe shoes down after sweaty sessions. Let them dry completely before storing — damp shoes develop odors and bacteria. Replace cleats when they show wear; worn cleats don’t release properly.

Check bolt tightness periodically. Vibration loosens things over time. A loose cleat mid-ride is annoying; a loose one releasing unexpectedly is dangerous.