Buying Your First Bike (Or Your Fifth)

My first road bike was the wrong size. Second one had components I never used. Third time, I finally figured out what actually mattered. Buying bikes gets easier once you make enough mistakes to learn from them. Here’s what I wish someone had told me earlier.

Knowing What You Need

Before looking at bikes, figure out how you’ll actually use one. Commuting to work? Weekend fitness rides? Dirt trails? Bikepacking across the state? Each use case points toward different bikes. The all-rounder that does everything acceptably might not do anything excellently.

I’m apparently a two-bike person. One for pavement, one for trails. Trying to make one bike handle both led to compromises that satisfied neither use.

The Major Categories

Road bikes: Drop bars, skinny tires, designed for speed on pavement. Great for fitness riding and long distances. Less forgiving on rough roads.

Mountain bikes: Flat bars, fat tires, suspension. Made for trails, roots, rocks, and general off-road chaos. Slower on pavement but capable of going places road bikes can’t.

Hybrids: Somewhere in between. Flat bars like a mountain bike, narrower tires like a road bike. Comfortable position for casual riding. Jack of all trades, master of none.

Gravel bikes: Drop bars like road bikes but with clearance for wider tires. Handle mixed terrain. Popular for adventures that include both pavement and dirt.

E-bikes: Motor assist for any category above. Make hills easier and extend range. Heavier and more expensive than non-electric equivalents.

Size Matters More Than Components

A $500 bike that fits properly will ride better than a $2000 bike that’s the wrong size. Getting size right is non-negotiable. Most brands publish size charts based on your height. Better shops will do a basic fit assessment.

Test ride if at all possible. Stand over the top tube. There should be clearance without discomfort. Seated, you should reach the handlebars without excessive stretching or cramping.

Frame Materials Explained

Aluminum: Most common. Affordable, light enough, stiff. Majority of mid-range bikes use aluminum. Nothing wrong with it.

Carbon fiber: Lighter, absorbs vibration better. Premium price tag. Found on higher-end road, gravel, and mountain bikes. Worth it for serious riders, unnecessary for casual ones.

Steel: Classic material. Comfortable ride quality. Heavier than aluminum or carbon. Popular for touring and commuter bikes where weight matters less than durability.

Component Tiers

Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo make most of the groupsets you’ll encounter. Each has tiers ranging from budget to race-level. For road bikes:

Entry level: Shimano Claris (8-speed), Sora (9-speed)

Mid-range: Tiagra (10-speed), 105 (11-speed)

High-end: Ultegra, Dura-Ace

105 is where most people land. It’s the sweet spot of performance versus cost. Everything above is lighter and shifts slightly better, but 105 is already excellent.

Where to Buy

Local bike shops: Test rides, professional fitting, ongoing service support. Usually full retail price. Worth the premium for first-time buyers.

Online direct-to-consumer: Companies like Canyon, YT, and Fezzari sell direct. Better value but you’re doing your own assembly and fit. Good if you know what you need.

Used: Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, specialty forums. Steep discounts but buyer beware. Check for frame damage, worn components, and stolen bikes.

Budget Reality

Functional new bikes start around $400-500 for basic models. At $800-1200 you get into decent components and better frames. Above $1500 you’re paying for weight savings and refinement. Above $3000 is enthusiast territory.

Don’t forget accessories: helmet ($50-150), lock ($40-100), lights ($30-80), pump ($20-40). Budget another 10-20% of the bike cost for essentials.

The Upgrade Trap

Resist the urge to immediately upgrade components. Ride what you bought for a season. Learn what actually bothers you versus what forums convince you should bother you. Many riders spend hundreds on upgrades they didn’t need.